Walking with (running from?) rhinos

MATOBO, Zimbabwe _ Our guide, Ian, is a 13th generation southern African, after his British ancestors moved to South Africa in 1790. He grew up on a farm nearby and calls the national park here his own backyard. He also calls the rhinos his family, since he knows all of their names and has known many of them since birth. He clearly mourns the passing of each one, especially those killed by poachers for the animal's horn, which can be worth 500,000 dollars on the black market. Ian is one of the world's best guides. According to the British magazine Wanderlust, he is, in fact, fourth best in the world. It's hard to imagine how good the three others must be.

A tour with Ian differs from other wildlife tours. He prides himself on getting his trekkers closer to rhinos and other wildlife than any guide in the world. He does just that and is famous for it.

To tag along with Ian, you have to be ready to fling youself on the ground or climb the nearest tree or sprint if a rhino charges. ''You'd be amazed at the reserves of energy you can summon up,'' he said. For another, you get within what seems like petting distance of an animal as big and powerful as a tank.

We didn't have to run, but we did our share of creeping around. He got us within a few meters of a rhino family. The male was very aware that it was breeding season. The female, with her exasperated signs, let him know she was not in the mood.

''We don't have to worry about him,'' says Ian. ''If he runs anywhere, it will be away from her.'' It's not just the rhinos that make Ian a guide apart. He points our everything from dung beetles to elephants and plants that can be use use to heal or to kill.

Around the campfire later, they discover that Doug and Ian share a passion from ancient British cars. Ian has a collection of Land Rovers, including a first prototype from 1948.

D&E