Africa at last

For Doug, landing in Southern Africa was a life-long dream. Not just because D&E have actually met Nelson Mandela, F.W. de Klerk, and Bishop Desmond Tutu (we were at Mandela and de Klerk's 1993 Nobel Peace Prize banquet), but because Douglas grew up with tales of Southern Africa, and was even named for his father's best friend there, Bill Douglas.

So on the 24-day overland trek that is soon to start, D&E will pass through South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and back to South Africa, they will be in Doug's late father Svante's stomping grounds 60-70 years ago. Svante was a Norwegian farm boy who went on to take and advanced science degree, and, finding little to do in Norway during the depression of the 1930s, headed off for southern Africa to work for the mining industry and stayed for a decade or so. He lived in Kitwe and Ndola in Zambia, and was often at the corporate offices of Anglo-American Copper in Johannesburg towards the end of his time in Africa. (thanks brother Eric) and Doug remembers him talking about him heading upriver in dug out canoes in search of minerals. For at least one trek, D&E will be in just that kind of canoe. Svante moved to the United States in 1944, but appeared to long for Southern Africa for years.

Oh and Oslo, plus other Norwegian cities. Hop on a flight to Cape Town. No litter. No Graffiti. Gosh. Is that possible?

Now, as far as Cape Town. Wow too. Feeling the need to rest up a bit for the the long trek, we splurged and rented a furnished rooftop apartment at the Drifters Inn on the Waterfront. In their minds, D&E were going to be sipping sparkling wine while sunning themselves on their private balcony. In reality, wind and rain drove them inside the first days.

Just the same, there is plenty to do at this cosmopolitan, and international city, such as shopping at the Waterfront, or ... lord help us ... eating. What an experience. We need to get out of here and into the bush before we are too heavy to stand and walk under our own power.

There was just one thing that was disturbing: Apartheid may be over, but is still much economic segregation. Here at Sea Point, or other posh areas as a Waterfront, virtually everyone is white except for those serving them. And not far from the shiny Porsches here, are townships of ramshackle shakes and abject poverty, New construction ahead of football's 2010 World Cup looks like it might improve things from some.

But we're just passing through. Much of the first two days went to getting (cheap) locally made safari clothing and gear. We tried to get out the Robben Island, where Mandela was a prisoner for 28 years, but the boats were stopped by wind and waves, organizers said.

''Strange" _ we thought _ as we sailed toward the island on a catamaran sailboat, noting how calm the waters were. We got close, but not ashore. Eva _ back in here element on a sailboat _ did what came naturally, and seized the helm from the captain, steering us confidently back toward port at the end of the 90 minute tour. (She managed not to shout commands at the professional crew, which is probably a good thing.)

A day later, we hiked the trails of the Cape of Good Hope and not far away saw African Penguins. once called Jackass Penguins. I have friends like that.

Now _ finally _ we had breakfast in the sunshine on our veranda, a promising start to the next 24 days.

We have no idea how 'Net access will be over the next 24 days in the Africa wilderness. Will update when we can.

D&E